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| " 16345 Netravati Express" from Mumbai to Ernakulam. Stoppage at " Ratnagiri" the Capital of " Alphonso( Happus) mangoes. |
As a tea addict guzzling tea daily akin to water realized it was time i visited the highest tea estate in the World, Kolukkumalai in Tamil Nadu during my stay in Munnar Hill station in Kerala.Train ticket's 16345/Netravati Exp(Mumbai to Ernakulam Jn) and 16346(Ernakulam Jn to Mumbai) was booked in October 2022.Remember in India its easier getting air tickets than long distance train tickets and hence prior bookings is mandatory .Otherwise be willing to pay a hefty premium for last minute booking of train tickets.
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| Train journey through picturesque Kerala Backwaters. |
Tuesday (20/12/2022) Departure Mumbai by train and arrival in Munnar by bus on Wednesday(21/12/2022) :- Boarded No 162 bus from my residence at Old Prabhadevi road and alighted at Sewri station from where I boarded the local train to " Tilak Nagar station.From " Tilak Nagar" station it is a short walk to Lokmanya Tilak Terminus( LTT) where i boarded compartment " S3" of the " 15345 Netravati Express" on platform No 1 and onto " Seat 57".Departure was prompt at 1140 hrs ." Second Class " travel on trains in India is akin to " Chawl style" living in Mumbai and my co- passengers were a young group of scout students heading to Mangalore and a lone lady on her way to Kerala.Lunch was " Chicken Biryani" excellent for Rs 110 and later at Chiplun it was " Vada Pav " for tea.
Just as the train was pulling out of Chiplun station someone from our compartment " S3" had pulled the emergency train and stopped the train.Hence s delay with the railway police involved and real drama on the tracks.The train finally started and between lunch and snacks it was orange's and banana's ,a picnic train journey .As a loner living in a palatial flat in Mumbai and always using my bike or cycle for commuting its excellent occasionally travelling long distance by train in common second class. With introduction of internet access on all trains as a blogger/ bookworm I no longer get bored as the " Smartphone" compensates carrying of a novel/ book or paper writing material .
As a privileged Indian you get a feel of the average common Indian travel lifestyle and also keeps my feet firmly grounded to reality. Could i have made politics as my profession ? Definitely no although most of the time during my travels I think like a politician. Ahoy ! Akin to Television adventurer/ explorer Bear Grylls had to survive the night sleeping in the absolutely luggage congested compartment. The train was late by one hour but made up for the same overnight .On Wednesday(21/12/2022) morning the school students and their young scout master were surprised to reach Mangalore junction on time at 0415 hrs where a huge entourage of school students alighted to attend the " International Scouts Jamboree" in Mangalore.
The train journey through the coastal state of Kerala is scenic with rivers and greenery.Looking out of the train spotted a large Argentina flag strung next to the railway track like a volleyball net.Further away saw a Argentina flag strung between two coconut tree's.Seems entire Kerala had not yet recovered from the celebrations of the Argentina win over France on Sunday(18/12/2022) in " Qatar World Cup- 2022".In India where " Cricket" is next to a religion it is the North East State's , Bengal, Goa and Kerala that have maximum passion in Football, a sport that India ranks dismally low even in Asia let alone the World.Hope "Qatar World Cup - 2022" sets the trend for budding footballers although I doubt India's football team will qualify for a World Cup during my lifetime.Ahoy ! Finally reached Aluva Station at 1230 hrs.
A co- passenger Mr Latheesh.Kumar also alighted at the same station and we both walked about 100 meters uphill from the station to the bus stop.To my horror realized this was not the main bus depot although transit Munnar buses stopped here but not guaranteed. Finally a local young man Mr Rajesh.Raju who was also heading to Munnar suggested we first board the bus to Kothamangalam and from there another bus to Munnar.At 1310 hrs boarded the local K.S.R.T.C bus to Kothamangalam the ticket being Rs 40 and the distance approximately 37 km.At Kothamangalam bus depot after a short refreshment rest boarded the Munnar bus at 1430 hrs , the ticket being Rs 75.Mumnar is 79 Kms by road from Kothamangalam and the bus was almost empty.From Kothamangalam it was a gradual steep incline mountain drive to Munnar .
On the way came across Cheeyapara waterfalls situated next to the main highway road.Further driving up the mountain road in the distance saw the beautiful Vallara waterfalls.At 1610 hrs reached Adimali Bus station, a major bus stop on the route to Munar Town.After a brief stop at Adimali village bus terminus it was a long 5Km uphill drive to Anachal village bus terminus,my residence in Munnar. Munnar Town is 13Kms further away from Anachal situated within Idukki District of Kerala.. On alighting the bus at Anachal village asked a local for directions and simultaneously rang up Mr Shaiju. Iype , the manager of " 3 R Residency".Shahju spoke to the local in Malayalam over the phone and i was told to catch a auto rickshaw as it was a very steep uphill climb to " 3 R Residency".
On payment of Rs 70 was driven the short 200 mts uphill distance to " 3 R Residency" , a three storey palatial bungalow that resembled a tiny hill island in the village of Anachal.The cook/ caretaker of the guesthouse welcomed me and showed me " Room No 103" ,my dormitory, a excellent well maintained guesthouse.The first thing I did was having a nice hot shower, a relief after two days of non- stop travel a la Grylls Bear survival course. As I was hungry asked caretaker Anil if food was available as this unique guesthouse seemed straight out of a film set, isolated and standing all alone surrounded by dense thick forest.A late lunch/ dinner was " Kerala Fish curry/ Rice( Sardine Bangda)" which was pungent but similar to village Mangalorean food.Later ,guesthouse manager Mr Shaiju.Iype arrived and explained me the method of travel and sightseeing in Munnar.First and foremost booked a 2- Nights stay at Kolukkumalai which was the main reason I visited Munnar.
After seeing " Victoria Falls" and a dip in " Devil's pool " in Zambia had lost enthusiasm of just gazing at waterfalls.If you have climbed Mt Everest then you can't conquer any higher peaks ! Manager Mr Shaiju. Iype told me that leopards do live in the vicinity deep in the forest and recently a leopard that was preying on livestock was killed by the locals.Elephants are a problem in certain parts of Munnar with human lives being lost.The 8 bed excellently maintained dormitory had just one other guest , a young white British teacher Mr Dominic who taught student's in Bangkok.As for me was hoping to get a good night's sleep after a marathon 32 hours train and road journey from Mumbai to Anachal village.
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| Winding road drive to Anachal. Cheeyapara Waterfalls on the highway road route. |
Just as the train was pulling out of Chiplun station someone from our compartment " S3" had pulled the emergency train and stopped the train.Hence s delay with the railway police involved and real drama on the tracks.The train finally started and between lunch and snacks it was orange's and banana's ,a picnic train journey .As a loner living in a palatial flat in Mumbai and always using my bike or cycle for commuting its excellent occasionally travelling long distance by train in common second class. With introduction of internet access on all trains as a blogger/ bookworm I no longer get bored as the " Smartphone" compensates carrying of a novel/ book or paper writing material .
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| Vallara waterfalls viewed from the bus while driving up the mountain to Anachal. |
As a privileged Indian you get a feel of the average common Indian travel lifestyle and also keeps my feet firmly grounded to reality. Could i have made politics as my profession ? Definitely no although most of the time during my travels I think like a politician. Ahoy ! Akin to Television adventurer/ explorer Bear Grylls had to survive the night sleeping in the absolutely luggage congested compartment. The train was late by one hour but made up for the same overnight .On Wednesday(21/12/2022) morning the school students and their young scout master were surprised to reach Mangalore junction on time at 0415 hrs where a huge entourage of school students alighted to attend the " International Scouts Jamboree" in Mangalore.
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| On the KSRTC bus on the final leg of marathon journey to Munnar from Mumbai.Driver Rajesh.Raju guided me from Aluva bus Station to Munnar. |
The train journey through the coastal state of Kerala is scenic with rivers and greenery.Looking out of the train spotted a large Argentina flag strung next to the railway track like a volleyball net.Further away saw a Argentina flag strung between two coconut tree's.Seems entire Kerala had not yet recovered from the celebrations of the Argentina win over France on Sunday(18/12/2022) in " Qatar World Cup- 2022".In India where " Cricket" is next to a religion it is the North East State's , Bengal, Goa and Kerala that have maximum passion in Football, a sport that India ranks dismally low even in Asia let alone the World.Hope "Qatar World Cup - 2022" sets the trend for budding footballers although I doubt India's football team will qualify for a World Cup during my lifetime.Ahoy ! Finally reached Aluva Station at 1230 hrs.
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| Finally at" 3R RESIDENCY " in Anachal Village of Munnar. |
A co- passenger Mr Latheesh.Kumar also alighted at the same station and we both walked about 100 meters uphill from the station to the bus stop.To my horror realized this was not the main bus depot although transit Munnar buses stopped here but not guaranteed. Finally a local young man Mr Rajesh.Raju who was also heading to Munnar suggested we first board the bus to Kothamangalam and from there another bus to Munnar.At 1310 hrs boarded the local K.S.R.T.C bus to Kothamangalam the ticket being Rs 40 and the distance approximately 37 km.At Kothamangalam bus depot after a short refreshment rest boarded the Munnar bus at 1430 hrs , the ticket being Rs 75.Mumnar is 79 Kms by road from Kothamangalam and the bus was almost empty.From Kothamangalam it was a gradual steep incline mountain drive to Munnar .
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| "MUNNAR TOURIST ROUTE MAP".Important view points and locales over different mountain highway routes as shown in the "Line Diagrams" of the map. |
On the way came across Cheeyapara waterfalls situated next to the main highway road.Further driving up the mountain road in the distance saw the beautiful Vallara waterfalls.At 1610 hrs reached Adimali Bus station, a major bus stop on the route to Munar Town.After a brief stop at Adimali village bus terminus it was a long 5Km uphill drive to Anachal village bus terminus,my residence in Munnar. Munnar Town is 13Kms further away from Anachal situated within Idukki District of Kerala.. On alighting the bus at Anachal village asked a local for directions and simultaneously rang up Mr Shaiju. Iype , the manager of " 3 R Residency".Shahju spoke to the local in Malayalam over the phone and i was told to catch a auto rickshaw as it was a very steep uphill climb to " 3 R Residency".
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| The steep 200 Mts uphill walk to " 3 R Residency", compensated my daily 1 Km swim fitness routine in Mumbai." Age is just a number." ? Hopefully ! |
On payment of Rs 70 was driven the short 200 mts uphill distance to " 3 R Residency" , a three storey palatial bungalow that resembled a tiny hill island in the village of Anachal.The cook/ caretaker of the guesthouse welcomed me and showed me " Room No 103" ,my dormitory, a excellent well maintained guesthouse.The first thing I did was having a nice hot shower, a relief after two days of non- stop travel a la Grylls Bear survival course. As I was hungry asked caretaker Anil if food was available as this unique guesthouse seemed straight out of a film set, isolated and standing all alone surrounded by dense thick forest.A late lunch/ dinner was " Kerala Fish curry/ Rice( Sardine Bangda)" which was pungent but similar to village Mangalorean food.Later ,guesthouse manager Mr Shaiju.Iype arrived and explained me the method of travel and sightseeing in Munnar.First and foremost booked a 2- Nights stay at Kolukkumalai which was the main reason I visited Munnar.
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| " 3 R Residency ", perched on top of a hill in Anachal Village of Idukki District in Kerala.Anachal village is 13 Kms from Munnar Town. |
After seeing " Victoria Falls" and a dip in " Devil's pool " in Zambia had lost enthusiasm of just gazing at waterfalls.If you have climbed Mt Everest then you can't conquer any higher peaks ! Manager Mr Shaiju. Iype told me that leopards do live in the vicinity deep in the forest and recently a leopard that was preying on livestock was killed by the locals.Elephants are a problem in certain parts of Munnar with human lives being lost.The 8 bed excellently maintained dormitory had just one other guest , a young white British teacher Mr Dominic who taught student's in Bangkok.As for me was hoping to get a good night's sleep after a marathon 32 hours train and road journey from Mumbai to Anachal village.
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| Unbelievable " QATAR WORLD CUP 2022" support for Argentina in Munnar. |
Thursday(22/12/2022) At Anachal Village in Idukki District of Kerala :- Was thankful for my usual 4 hrs excellent sleep and later busy on the smartphone and also simultaneously listening to classic music of my generation.Excellent cool weather but not cold as I had anticipated.After a hot shower was ready, set and go to explore Munnar Town , the main centre of Munnar which is spread over a huge area into various tea plantation villages of Idduki district of Kerala..The four Caucasian foreign tourists were to go on a hike in the mountains and so at 0700 hrs we all boarded the station wagon and Manager Mr Shaiju.Iype gave me a lift upto the KRSTC bus depot of Munnar Town as it was on the same route as the drop-off point of the hikers.
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| The cheapest and most convenient method of sightseeing distant tourist locales in Munnar." KSRTC MUNNAR TOUR" bus to be boarded at Old Munnar Town bus stand at 0900 hrs.Boarded this tour bus that stopped at various sites along the "Munnar-Thekkady Highway".There are no organized tour companies conducting mass tourism in Munnar and hence if travelling "SOLO" see that you have your own transport or able to afford highly expensive private transport. As for me i missed my "RE 350 Bullet" bike and thankfully local public transport as well as shared private transport, autorickshaw's enabled me to travel across various distant locales in Idukki district of Kerala from tiny Munnar Town . Ahoy ! |
Shaiju explained me the details regarding boarding the " K.S.R.T.C" tour bus that took tourists on a first come first served basis at 0900 hrs..As I was very early had breakfast of " Idli/ Medhu vada" at Sree Annapoorani vegetarian restaurant situated near the bus stand.Excellent authentic South Indian preparation served on a banana leaf.After a sumptuous breakfast walked back to the bus stand and relieved to see tourists assembled for the tour on the "Munnar-Thekkady" mountain highway route..If there are less tourists then the tour gets cancelled and hence was relieved to see a large number of tourists. Purchased my ticket costing Rs 300 and was allotted window seat No 7.There was a total of 23 passengers and at 0915 hrs our road tour began with our driver being the tour guide. Our first tour stop on the highway was " PHOTO POINT " which had a scenic view of the tea estates.
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| View from " PHOTO POINT" in Munnar.A carpet of tea estates and forested mountains in the horizon. |
From " PHOTO POINT " just a short drive along the highway our next stop was " SIGNAL POINT".The unique beauty of " SIGNAL POINT" was the unique shape of the small tea plantation hills that resembled the favourite South Indian dish of " Idli". I have visited tea estates across India and " SIGNAL POINT" definitely stood out of the normal ordinary tea plantation hills.
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| At " SIGNAL POINT". Poster Card scene .Notice the unique formation of the small tea plantation hills in the form of "Idli's". |
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| One for the camera's at " LOCKHARDT TEA ESTATE" |
From Lockhardt tea estate our next stop on the highway was at " MALAIKALLAN CAVE" situated on the " GAP ROAD VIEW" site.Visited the cave which was just a dark dungeon inside a hillside rock.
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| At entrance to " MALAIKALLAN CAVE" |
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| A cyclist on the highway.Cycling on Idukki District mountain roads will test your limits as a endurance cyclist. |
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| " PERIYAKANAL WATERFALLS" also called "Chinnakanal waterfalls" is along the "Munnar-Thekkady" highway , 22 Kms from Munnar in Idukki District. |
Our next stop was at " ANAIRANKAL DAM " viewpoint which has a excellent view of the artificial lake amidst the tea garden hill slopes created by the Anayirankal Dam.
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| " ANAYIRANKAL DAM VIEWPOINT" seen from the highway road.Scenic view with the plantation workers mechanically clipping the tea leaves. |
Chathurangapara viewpoint was our next destination the last stop on the Kochi-Theni highway.We had a long mountain drive through mostly spice plantations of Cardamon and finally reached the end point of a camping resort. Chathurangapara s the last village in Kerala and hence the tour "KSRTC" bus last stop of the tour.Here we alighted our tourist bus and had to board a jeep which accommodated 8 tourists to a jeep charging Rs 60/ Tourist.It was a long off-road rough uphill drive to Chathurangapara Viewpoint passing gigantic electric windmills enroute the steep mountain drive. From the top is a scenic view of the boundaries of the State of Kerala and Tamil Nadu.It was very windy and hence the erection of windmills.The Tamil Nadu side of the border can be seen below as plain plantation land while the Kerala side of Idukki district has lush forest of the Western Ghats.For the first time in my life heard the sound of the large windmill and with my binoculars also spotted a huge raptor which I couldn't identify and first mistook it to be a drone.Real large bird that descended like a helicopter near the base of a windmill in the distance below the hill.
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| At " CHATURANGAPARA VIEWPOINT " in Idukki District.The most awesome and unique locale of this "KSRTC" bust tour.Our bus stopped at the base of this mountain hill from where we boarded a shared jeep for the approx 1 Km uphill offroad bumpy drive to this indescribable viewpoint.Amazing view of the difference in topography of the geographical borders of Kerala and Tamil Nadu viewed from this mountain top.. |
After the view from Chaturangapara we drove back to ground level in our jeeps, a bumpy but quick ride downhill.Our next stop was for lunch at " Swagath Restaurant " situated next to a Mosque.Whenever on travel explorations I always indulge in local cuisine and hence lunch was a Kerala specialty called " Chattichoru " which was served in a large clay pot and consisted of four non veg ingredients as also vegetables served in Kerala boiled rice.Excellent at Rs 250 but meant for 2 diner's but I somehow overstuffed my stomache.
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| " Chattichoru " is a Kerala specialty and a must taste dish if a Non-Vegetarian connoisseur of food. |
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| A spice market selling locally grown spices as also offering a farm tour of spices. |
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| View of " ANAYIRANKAL DAM ". |
Finally our last stop on the return journey was at a tea estate garden where we were allowed to Stroll amidst the tea tree's
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Further down the highway passed alongside the " Botanical Garden" that was having a light show in the evenings.Finally at approximately 1645 hrs we were back to Old Munnar Town, end of a hectic and engrossing exploration of Munnar.Visited the local ATM as cash is King and important in comparison to debit/credit or other digital transactions. Purchased some Kerala Halwa and a jackfruit cake at a popular confectionary shop and at 1700 hrs boarded the KSRTC bus to Anachal.Bus ticket for the 13 Km journey was Rs 28 and for the first time in my nomadic travels was staying at a location far from the main city / Town centre.On arriving at Anachal spotted a huge single hot air balloon in the air in the distance tied with ropes to the ground with the gas burner burning.Most important hurdle was the long walk and uphill trek to " 3R Residency ",definitely my first stay in a accommodation situated on a single lone hillock .Travel educates
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| A Stroll in a large tea estate. |
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| Hot Air Balloon anchored to the ground.Tourists are just suspended mid-air on this Balloon as seen in the photo.Bizarre "Hot Balloon Flight" in Munnar or a scam of being suspended in mid-air. |
Further down the highway passed alongside the " Botanical Garden" that was having a light show in the evenings.Finally at approximately 1645 hrs we were back to Old Munnar Town, end of a hectic and engrossing exploration of Munnar.Visited the local ATM as cash is King and important in comparison to debit/credit or other digital transactions. Purchased some Kerala Halwa and a jackfruit cake at a popular confectionary shop and at 1700 hrs boarded the KSRTC bus to Anachal.Bus ticket for the 13 Km journey was Rs 28 and for the first time in my nomadic travels was staying at a location far from the main city / Town centre.On arriving at Anachal spotted a huge single hot air balloon in the air in the distance tied with ropes to the ground with the gas burner burning.Most important hurdle was the long walk and uphill trek to " 3R Residency ",definitely my first stay in a accommodation situated on a single lone hillock .Travel educates
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| At taxi stand in Munnar Town.On way to Suryanelli. |
Friday(23/12/2022)Munnar to Suryanelli :- As usual slept for just a few hours and after my normal routine and a cup of tea discussed my travel schedule to Suryanelli with Manager Shaiju..I was to join " Tribals Path" group tour to Kolukkumalai from Suryavanelli
Mr Shaiju gave me a lift on his motorcycle upto the bus stand, a dare devil ride considering the steep incline of the mountain hillock and most guests staying at "3 R Residency" came in car's ,hired bikes , scooters or like most Caucasian guests were young hardcore trekkers. Breakfast cum lunch was " Chilly fry beef/ Aapam" along with tea costing Rs 210 at " Friends Restaurant" near the bus stand and was excellent.After the sumptuous breakfast stood at the bus stand and lucky to get a bus within a short time.A long pleasant 13 Km journey through hills of mountain side tea estates with the bus fare being Rs 30.
On arrival at Munnar Town main taxi / bus stand was surprised to suddenly be in the.midst of a traffic congested town resembling any busy metropolis rather than a classic hill station.A jeep taxi driver approached me for a shared taxi to Suryanelli at a charge of Rs 100/ person with a minimum of 10 passengers !I was the first passenger and had to wait for almost one and a half hour hrs before the required number of 10 passengers filled the jeep."Solo Tourist" , patience is your alter ego !Finally at 1130 hrs the overloaded Mahindra jeep began the journey to Suryanelli. Reached Suryanelli taxi stand at 1215 hrs and rang up Manager Mr Mithun.Kumar of " Tribals Path" for directions to the jungle resort.
Saw a board on a building on the main road advertising trips to Kolukkumalai and inquired the same with a local who guided me to the office which was closed.He rang up the person and after a short time Mr K.Pandiarajan, the manager of Kolukkumalai Estate administrative office in Suryanelli arrived and explained me regarding tours to the estate .He contacted the local person Mr Selvam at Kolukkumalai on the phone and I spoke to him explaining the situation and he agreed to arrange return shared transport.
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| " Tribals Path" jungle Campsite in Suryanelli This hillside plot was formerly a Cardamon plantation.. |
On arrival at Munnar Town main taxi / bus stand was surprised to suddenly be in the.midst of a traffic congested town resembling any busy metropolis rather than a classic hill station.A jeep taxi driver approached me for a shared taxi to Suryanelli at a charge of Rs 100/ person with a minimum of 10 passengers !I was the first passenger and had to wait for almost one and a half hour hrs before the required number of 10 passengers filled the jeep."Solo Tourist" , patience is your alter ego !Finally at 1130 hrs the overloaded Mahindra jeep began the journey to Suryanelli. Reached Suryanelli taxi stand at 1215 hrs and rang up Manager Mr Mithun.Kumar of " Tribals Path" for directions to the jungle resort.
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| My jungle camp tent on the hillside.Each tent is meant for 2 persons or more depending on size of the tent and being single was happy to be all alone in this tent.A housefull crowd of youth and a few couples/families. This accommodation was something new to me . "Better late than too late" in experiencing some of the youth pleasures of life and lifestyle. |
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| A trek to " Phantom Peak" from " Tribals Path" Campsite situated midway on this mountain hill. |
Saw a board on a building on the main road advertising trips to Kolukkumalai and inquired the same with a local who guided me to the office which was closed.He rang up the person and after a short time Mr K.Pandiarajan, the manager of Kolukkumalai Estate administrative office in Suryanelli arrived and explained me regarding tours to the estate .He contacted the local person Mr Selvam at Kolukkumalai on the phone and I spoke to him explaining the situation and he agreed to arrange return shared transport.
Relieved I finally boarded a autorickshaw and after ringing up Mr Mithun.Kumar again connected him to the driver for explaining location as we drove to " Tribals Path" jungle resort.
On the well constructed highway road came across a sign saying " Elephant Crossing " and surprised as this migration route was in the midst of human settlements.Further ahead from the " Elephant Crossing " sign board came across " Munnar College of Catering" that was crowded with students.What is the future of Wildlife in India where human and animal conflicts are inevitable due to encroachment of humans onto animal habitat which is forest land.Munnar has had a few elephant- human conflicts resulting in damage of property and at worst also human.lives.Hope " Elephant Corridors" are successful where we humans have encroached on wildlife land.Finally it was a upward inclined drive on a hillside amidst dense forest and finally arrived at the jungle Campsite of " Tribals Path".
A entire mountain hill side was cleared for a former Cardamon plantation site that was later converted to this classic jungle Campsite in the midst of dense forest. From the road walked down the steps of the hillside and was greeted by Mr Mithun. Kumar who explained me this awesome jungle Campsite.
I was shown my tent and after sleeping in the Thar desert at " Sam Dunes" in Jaisalmer this was the second time I would be sleeping on the ground in a camp in the midst of a jungle although not a desert.Ahoy ! Well planned resort with toilets, hot water bathing facilities ,electricity and most importantly " Internet" access, the lifeline of 21st century living and communication. At approximately 1330 hrs searching the tree's for birds suddenly saw a dark object bulging from the bark of a tree.To my utter disbelief it was a mammoth giant sized " Giant Malabar Squirrel", absolutely beautiful and feeding on something among the leaves on the tree.It later disappeared in the dense undergrowth emerging later at almost ground level providing excellent sighting.
Absolutely lucky sighting and hope before I leave Munnar do get to sight the Nilgiri Tahr in the Eravikulam National Park.The crowd gradually started filling the Campsite which consisted of the youth and some family's with children. At 1645 hrs the youth went on a trek to the peak of this hill which " Tribals Path" has named " Phantom Peak" since they own a part of this hill.Astounding to be living on the slope of a forested hill that was once a cardamon plantation in the midst of a dense jungle . Akin to living on a private island in the sea.The trekkers returned back to base and tea with biscuits was served, the weather chill cold.For the first time I was wearing a sweater and a jacket.Strangely didn't hear any of the youth speak in English language within themselves,it was either Malayalam or Tamil.Amazing India which Non-Indians find difficult to decipher. Ahoy !At night the forest resort was amazing with decorated lights on the natural trees.A housefull crowd of young trekkers and a few couples.Being Christmas festive season a beautiful crib was also on display with the crib decorations made from natural forest material.
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| Campfire at night at "Tribals Path". |
On the well constructed highway road came across a sign saying " Elephant Crossing " and surprised as this migration route was in the midst of human settlements.Further ahead from the " Elephant Crossing " sign board came across " Munnar College of Catering" that was crowded with students.What is the future of Wildlife in India where human and animal conflicts are inevitable due to encroachment of humans onto animal habitat which is forest land.Munnar has had a few elephant- human conflicts resulting in damage of property and at worst also human.lives.Hope " Elephant Corridors" are successful where we humans have encroached on wildlife land.Finally it was a upward inclined drive on a hillside amidst dense forest and finally arrived at the jungle Campsite of " Tribals Path".
A entire mountain hill side was cleared for a former Cardamon plantation site that was later converted to this classic jungle Campsite in the midst of dense forest. From the road walked down the steps of the hillside and was greeted by Mr Mithun. Kumar who explained me this awesome jungle Campsite.
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| Flame thrower/ Eater entertaining crowd at "Tribals Path". |
I was shown my tent and after sleeping in the Thar desert at " Sam Dunes" in Jaisalmer this was the second time I would be sleeping on the ground in a camp in the midst of a jungle although not a desert.Ahoy ! Well planned resort with toilets, hot water bathing facilities ,electricity and most importantly " Internet" access, the lifeline of 21st century living and communication. At approximately 1330 hrs searching the tree's for birds suddenly saw a dark object bulging from the bark of a tree.To my utter disbelief it was a mammoth giant sized " Giant Malabar Squirrel", absolutely beautiful and feeding on something among the leaves on the tree.It later disappeared in the dense undergrowth emerging later at almost ground level providing excellent sighting.
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| Buffet Dinner at "Tribals Path". Excellent and no limit. |
Absolutely lucky sighting and hope before I leave Munnar do get to sight the Nilgiri Tahr in the Eravikulam National Park.The crowd gradually started filling the Campsite which consisted of the youth and some family's with children. At 1645 hrs the youth went on a trek to the peak of this hill which " Tribals Path" has named " Phantom Peak" since they own a part of this hill.Astounding to be living on the slope of a forested hill that was once a cardamon plantation in the midst of a dense jungle . Akin to living on a private island in the sea.The trekkers returned back to base and tea with biscuits was served, the weather chill cold.For the first time I was wearing a sweater and a jacket.Strangely didn't hear any of the youth speak in English language within themselves,it was either Malayalam or Tamil.Amazing India which Non-Indians find difficult to decipher. Ahoy !At night the forest resort was amazing with decorated lights on the natural trees.A housefull crowd of young trekkers and a few couples.Being Christmas festive season a beautiful crib was also on display with the crib decorations made from natural forest material.
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| Early morning jeep drive to Kolukkumalai. No elephants or Nilgiri Tahr sighted on road. |
Before dinner there was bonfire and next a excellent Tamil music dance cum " Fire Show" was organized with two flame throwers / flame eaters displaying their death defying skills.Actor Tom Cruise or Actor Akshay.Kumar were you both watching ? After the excellent show it was dinner time and it was a sumptuous tasty dinner comprising of chicken curry/ Chicken Chilly for non- veg along with chapatis and rice.Excellent " Sapat(Tamil for food)" washed down with a dessert of " Sheera".After dinner walked down the mountain side to my cute tent that resembled a Eskimo igloo rather than a Red Indian wigwam. Ahoy ! Strangely I felt cozy in my " Igloo" with two jackets and managed a 2-3hrs sleep getting up at 0300 hrs approx.
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| Viewing " SUNRISE" at 0637 hrs from Kolukkumalai in Kottagudi village of Theni district in Tamil Nadu. The highest tea plantation in the World "Kolukkumalai Tea Estate( Est 1930 ) is situated on the mountain slopes and grows organic hand picked tea leaves.. |
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| The convoy of jeeps heading to Kolukkumalai. Heavy traffic jam as approx 200 Jeeps heading the same narrow mountain road to KOLUKKUMALAI |
Saturday (24/12/2022) At Tribals Path in Suryanelli :- The toilet/ Bathe of the forest resort was akin to " Chawl system" living but very well maintained.After my normal toilet routines got dressed and at 0400 hrs assembled at the main open air lounge/ dining venue for directions regarding the " Sunrise Jeep Ride" to Kolukkumalai. Manager Mr Mithun.Kumar put me in a jeep that had three third year medical students from Govt Erode Medical college .Our jeep left " Tribals Path" jungle resort at 0500 hrs and it was a pleasant early morning drive on a excellent paved road until we reached the main detour junction for Kolukkumalai. Akin to Mumbai there was a huge traffic jam of tourist jeeps assembled in a file to enter the narrow road leading to Kolukkumalai Sunrise point peak.
After a short waiting period the convoy of jeeps moved ahead and finally the ascent of approximately 7 Km was orderly in a single file.
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| Our jeep on the way to Kolukkumalai Sunrise Point. |
After a short Winding drive through the mountain road the horror of horrors road show began.I have travelled across the Globe and India by sea, air, rail and road but never in my life did I encounter such bad roads as the ascending road to " Kolukkumalai Sunrise viewpoint". The recent horror road journey I had done was in September 2022 between Livingstone in Zambia and Katima Mulilo in Namibia but now in hindsight that road seemed " 3-Star" in comparison to the " Kolukkumalai Mountain Road".Ahoy ! My salutes to all the " Mahindra Jeep" drivers who daily cart tourists along this route as a slight miscalculation could lead to a tragic end although on inquiry was relieved to know that there has been no jeep casualty on this route in recent living memory. The "Mahindra Jeep" is the perfect economical 4-wheeler for off-road driving in India akin to the "Royal Enfield Motorcycle" for 2-wheel off-road riding. Vehicles designed and bred for tough off-roading as well as some of the horror normal roads in India.Private vehicles are not allowed to drive on this horror mountain road nor is trekking allowed along this road.
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| Finally at Kolukkumalai about to view " SUNRISE".Lucky to get a clear view with no fog or mist. |
Finally at 0610 hrs reached Kolukkumalai and was amazed at the convoy of jeeps parked serially along the narrow mountain road pathway. Kolukkumalai Sunrise Viewing and Tea Tourism" at its zenith with a daily procession of jeeps..All were Indian tourists and I couldn't sight any Caucasian or Negro foreigners in the large crowd.It was a short walk of approximately 10 mins in darkness through a narrow path from the jeep parking lot to the main " Sunrise Viewing Point". Recommend carrying a torch .There was a large crowd and we were in time to watch the amazing sight of the Sun's rays and later the Sun gradually rising at 0637 hrs, worth the money and World's most dangerous jeep ride.
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| At Kolukkumalai in the mountains at 7130 ft( 2,170 m) ,the highest tea plantation in the World . About to view SUNRISE. |
After watching Sunrise made my way back intending to visit " Kolukkumalai Tea Factory" but seeing the condition of the mountain road and the fact that i was travelling " Solo" with English not widely spoken decided to cancel the plan. I could visit the "Kanan Devan Hills Plantations Company Private Limited (Tata Tea Museum)" in Munnar once back to home away from home "3 R Residency" in Anachal.To my dismay realized that our jeep had taken off without me as I had told the driver not to wait for me.
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| If a good trekker try to summit Meesapulima Peak (8700 ft) which is this steep pinnacle shaped mountain , the second highest peak in the Western Ghats of India.. |
Finally after requesting numerous drivers for a lift was lucky to get one in a jeep carrying young children.Back to school travel with inquisitive kids not fluent in English language and the rickshaw driver blaring religious "Ayappa " devotional songs on his speaker.Accustomed to the bumpy ride on the downhill return journey was finally back to base Suryanelli. Thanked the driver and paid him a tip and next boarded a autorickshaw at the nominal charge of Rs 100 to "Tribals Path"..Didn't spot any Nilgiri Tahrs on the road pathways unlike Livingstone in Zambia where on my way back from Victoria Falls National Park spotted about 3-4 elephants next to the road feeding on tree leaves.A sight i will remember for life. In Suryanelli only saw a warning regarding " Elephant Crossing" route.Finally was at " Tribals Path" jungle resort freshened by the excellent morning jeep ride to the highest tea estate in the World.Breakfast was at 1000 hrs, excellent buffet South Indian delicacies with boiled eggs and bread/ jam.
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| At highest tea plantation in the World by jeep:- .Kottagudi tea plantations which manages "Kolukkumalai tea estates situated at a height of 7,150 feet is in Theni District of Tamil Nadu.Below is the video of the descent to Suryanelli from Kolukummalai through the World's worst road. |
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| Scenic tea plantation of Kolukkumalai. A carpet of uniformly levelled and spaced tea plants. |
After breakfast went back to my " Igloo camp" and further downhill towards the common Toilet/ Bathe .Filled a bucket of hot water from the open air gas geyser piped to a gas cylinder similar to mine at home in Mumbai.After bathe relaxed to the continuous cooing of wild doves updating my travelogue. Strangely after about 1000 hrs noticed that the jungle got silent with the continuous cooing of wild doves coming to a abrupt halt.Would my friend the "Giant Malabar Squirrel " show up again today evening ? All the guests left the resort before noon and I was the lone tourist spending the second night in the jungle camp.Later learnt a little about spice cultivation through manager Mr Mithun.Kumar.
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| Descent by jeep through the World's worst civilian road to Kolukkumalai Sunrise viewpoint? |
Seems " Tribals Path" was formerly a Cardamon cultivation plantation and since the owner found cultivation expensive in comparison to profits harvested he sold the land and hence the formation of " Tribals Path" on this mountain side slope.The estate still has cardamon plants near the toilet/ bathroom as also a few orange, coffee and eucalyptus trees.Macaque monkeys raid the estate during the orange season.Didn't spot my friend the " Giant Malabar squirrel" but sound of birds was non stop at dusk.At night on " Christmas Eve" it was the same routine as yesterday with flame throwers providing entertainment and the young crowd and a family dancing a little more enthusiastically to Tamil music."Middle-Class" clean and fun entertainment for local Indian tourists.Travel educates.
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| Christmas Eve dinner at " Tribals Path " jungle resort. |
As for me had developed a bad cold, could be change in weather and hoping it wouldn't require medical attention.Otherwise was absolutely relaxed amidst nature.Dinner was the same as yesterday and excellent.According to me seems this is a mid - level budget resort catering to the middle class locals and Indian tourists ,families as well as youth groups and the odd one off single's like me. Definitely not a " 5-Star" style hi- fi resort.As for me for the first time stayed in a tent although could also hold a record for staying in most number of hotels, lodges,homesteads including my own house in Mumbai.Yes, to me " Tribals Path" jungle resort was something different, both in accommodation style and entertainment.
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| View of " Mount Carmel Church" situated on a hillock in Munnar Town. |
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| Christmas Crib of Mount Carmel Church in Munnar. |
Sunday(25/12/2022) Christmas Day:- As usual the insomniac was awake at 0300 hrs with a bad allergic cough.At 0600 hrs went to the main open air dining hall cum entertainment compound and had some black tea without milk.Later took my binoculars and went to the same spot where I had spotted the Giant Malabar Squirrel .The wild doves cooing was the first jungle sound of the morning followed by a unique sound I couldn't identify.The entire hill section beyond the resort boundary was heavily forested and was hoping to spot some wildlife or birds.
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| At the Christmas tree decor inside Mount Carmel Church. |
Lightning struck twice and to my amazement saw not one but a pair of Giant Malabar Squirrels feeding on a tree in the forrest.This time the squirrels didn't model for me for a long time and quickly disappeared in the thick jungle undergrowth. Today was my last day at " Tribals Path" jungle resort and sighting of not one but a pair of Giant Malabar squirrels made my day.Breakfast was at 0900 hrs, same routine as yesterday and excellent.Tourists mostly the youth and few families stay in this resort overnight and leave the next day and hence food menu is the same.The three medical students with me in the jeep to Kolukkumalai and myself were the only tourists who stayed two nights at this jungle camp.
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| Internal view of Mount Carmel Church. |
Usually heavily booked at weekends.Finally at 1100 hrs bid adieu to " Tribals Path" and at the small car park next to the main mountain road was amazed on seeing a variety of high prized local motorcycles.I also would have loved travelling to "Tribals Path" on a motorcycle and envied these bikers.Boarded a autorickshaw to Suryanelli Taxi stand and the road from " Tribals path" jungle resort to Suryanelli taxi/ bus stand reminded me of the " Victoria Falls " to Livingstone city route in Zambia having visited Africa recently in September/ October and hence fresh in my memory bank..As it was a Sunday there were no passengers travelling to Old Munnar and the jeep taxi driver advised me to board a autorickshaw to the main highway road " Power House bus stop" from where buses to Munnar were available. Met Mr K.Pandiarajan, the manager of " Kolukkumalai Tea estate" company in Suryanelli who guided me to a local auto driver and requested hin to drive me to " Power House bus stop" at a charge of Rs 100.Locals have been very helpful at times and finally after a long drive through hills of tea estate reached the main highway road of " Power House Bus Stop".
As it was Christmas day as also a Sunday frequency of bus services was less and hence fortunate to immediately get a bus on arrival at the Highway bus stop.Ticket was Rs 30 and it was the same familiar route as the " KSRTC" tourist bus excursion.Finally at 1215 hrs reached congested Munnar Town and on alighting inquired the direction to "Mount Carmel Church" which is situated in prime downtown Munnar.Mount Carmel Church is situated on a hillock and is a imposing edifice originally built in 1898 .
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| During non- worship hours photography is allowed. In front of the altar of Mount Carmel Church. |
The huge statue of Jesus Christ erected on the hillock is a imposing sight.The famous vegetarian restaurant " Sarvanya Bhavan" is situated in a by-lane from the main road near the flight of steps that leads to "Mount Carmel Church".Walked the flight of stairs with my heavy luggage and entered the premises of Mount Carmel church.The church Christmas crib was well made and on entering the church saw a young family taking photographs next to the Christmas tree and crib inside the church which was otherwise empty.Later requested the gentleman to take a few photographs of me and he obliged." Mount Carmel Church" besides being a normal practicing Catholic church is also a tourist landmark in Munnar.Mass was at 1600 hrs which I couldn't attend as travelling from Munnar to Anachal was a long 13 Km distance and bus frequency less as privately run buses were off-road due to a holiday.
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| Munar Town.Congested with narrow streets |
After the Church visit walked to the bus stop and boarded the bus to Anachal.On reaching Anachal visited " Friends Restaurant" for some beef cuisine as strangely pork cuisine is not served in Munnar restaurants.In Mumbai no Christmas festival is celebrated without a pork recipe and i missed my favourite Pork Vindaloo or Pork Sorpotel,typical Indian Catholic cuisine.As there was just " Chicken Biryani" on the menu had a glass of warm milk to soothe my cough and cold.Next visited the chemist on the main road and asked for some cough syrup and was given " Cofsils Cough syrup". Last of all did the long 200 m uphill trek to " 3 R Residency" which was houseful with guests.My room was to capacity with the owner Mr Radhakrishnan himself occupying the top bunk of my double bed.
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| Churchill Bridge(1944) In Munnar Town. |
Immediately took the cough syrup and after a excellent hot bathe went to sleep.Woke up at approx 2000 hrs and requested Mr Shaiju to make me omelet for dinner.The cough still persisted but less severe. The group of tourist's in my room were from Delhi and after ages heard Hindi instead of Malayalam or Tamil proving the fact that "ENGLISH LANGUAGE" is the ultimate link language of India in a Country having a National language of Hindi as also numerous regional languages and dialects.How many of the guests would know Konkani if i started conversing in Konkani language !" 3 R Residency " reminded me of some of the hostels in Europe and resembled a private bungalow rather than a guesthouse ." Free WiFi" at " 3 R Residency " was excellent.Did someone say India is a Developing Country? Not as far as the I.T Industry ,films, sport of Cricket or having the largest number of Billionaires in Asia is concerned. After a long time put on my headphones and listened to Christmas Carols.The guesthouse was totally full after another batch of I.T professionals arrived from Bangalore.They had hired bikes in Munnar and were on a tour of Kerala and back to Bangalore.As for me the cough syrup proved effective and the night coughing temporarily stopped and got my best sleep of the tour.
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| A walk in Eravikulam National Park to spot the Nilgiri Tahr.This is the last permissible post for tourists which further leads to Anamudi Peak, approximately a 2 hrs trek from this last tourist point within the park.. |
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| View of mountain ranges from Eravikulam National Park in Munnar. Didn't spot a single Nilgiri Tahr. |
Monday(26/12/2022)Boxing day sightseeing:- The Bangalore I.T bikers woke up at 0300 hrs and rode to Suryanelli to visit Kolukkumalai, a must visit site for every tourist or adventurer visiting Munnar.My allergic cough persisted but I was functional.Rasputin would be turning in his grave witnessing the chronic cough torturing me. After normal toilet routines took some travel guidance from Manager Mr Shaiju and at 0715 hrs walked downhill from " 3 R Residency " and while walking suddenly realized a trekker from the hostel was just behind me.Picked a conversation with young I.T professional Mr Reuben from Chennai who was heading to Munnar Town.He gave me a lift and during the long scenic drive got to know that Mr Reuben had studied I.T in England spending a fortune of his parent's money and now employed in Chennai. On reaching Munnar headed to " Saravana Bhavan " vegetarian restaurant and breakfast at 0800 hrs was " Masala Roast" with " Munnar tea".Excellent and moderately priced as this is a landmark " Housefull" restaurant of Munnar Town.
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| Into the Shola Forest section and Kurunji garden of the Eravikulam National Park. |
After breakfast crossed heritage " Churchill Bridge( 1944)" and walked the short distance to the bus stop.At the bus stop after a short wait boarded the bus to Marayoor with the destination being Rajamala.On alighting at Rajamala was surprised at the queue for ticket booking to Eravikulam National Park.After purchasing the ticket costing Rs 200 which was in the form of a complicated application form had to walk a flight of hill steps into the large hall for queue to board the " National Park Bus".Finally after a endless waiting period of almost 2 hrs boarded the bus to " Eravikulam National Park ".Suggest to book the tickets online as it saves time waiting in the endless queue, the longest wait in my tourist travels across the globe let alone India.It was a identical mountain ascent road trip to Kolukkumalai , only difference being the narrow mountain road was in excellent condition.At approximately 1145 hrs reached " Eravikulam National Park " main entrance gate and alighted the bus.
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| View of Anamudi Peak (2695 m/ 8842 ft) shaped like the head of a elephant seen in the background. Anamudi Peak is only a 2 hrs trek from Eravikulam National Park tourist point and is the highest peak in South India. |
At the main entrance gate after a luggage check and handing over the form I was let inside the National Park.The view of the surrounding tea estates and forests was now a normal feature to me having almost travelled the length and breadth of Munnar and Idukki District.It was a long uphill mountain walk with posters cautioning visitors from touching the Nilgiri Tahr.I presumed that this was totally deceptive advertising as even with my binoculars scrutinizing every nook and corner of the distant mountain sides didn't spot a domestic goat or cattle let alone a Nilgiri Tahr which was supposed to be as docile as cattle.Later i realized that i was just not lucky enough and in the wrong season of the year to spot th Nilgiri Tahr.
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| Drinking water from a mountain spring.Natural fresh water.Preserve our Shola Forests. |
Enquired with a forest guard who told me all the Nilgiri Tahr 's were on the other side of the mountain.The weather also changed abruptly and it started drizzling.Seeing the huge crowd I was also doubting if sightings of the Nilgiri Tahr was possible but then even in tiger sanctuaries the " Big Cats" are accustomed to jeeps and similarly I presumed the Nilgiri Tahr was accustomed to humans viewing them from a distance.Anyhow walked till the end of the park limit for tourists, a long uphill mountain trek. If allowed I would have attempted to trek to Mt Anamudai, the highest peak in South India as it was a mere 2 hours trek from this last point of the park limit to tourists.
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| Museum and Souvenir section at entrance to Eravikulam National Park in Munnar. |
Revised my basic botany and understood as well as visually saw " Shola Forests" within this high altitude National Park.Weather change would be abrupt within minutes from bright sunshine to foggy clouds and a light drizzle .Finally made my way back to the exit and entered the museum which had a excellent brief history of the National Park and the Nilgiri Tahr as well as conservation of the Nilgiri mountains and its Shola forests along with the Nilgiri Tahr.What amazed me most was the abrupt changes in mountain weather within minutes, a real hands down experience.
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| C.S.I.Christ Church Anglican Church in Old Munnar built in 1910 . A landmark edifice built on a hillock in Old Munnar. |
At approximately 1330 hrs boarded the National Park Bus back to Rajamala.On reaching Rajamala experienced heavy showers and with great difficulty got a shared autorickshaw to Munnar Town.There were huge traffic jams and our autodriver rode his auto like " Mad Max" with unbelievable skill that shocked me, a seasoned biker .
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| Internal view of C.S.I Christ Church in Old Munnar decorated for Christmas Festivity. |
In Kerala seems the Jeep drivers of Kolukkumalai and the autorickshaw drivers of Munnar and Idduki district require a mention in some record books .At approximately 1440 hrs reached Munnar Town and inquired the direction to " C.S.I Christ Church" the historic Anglican church of Munnar.Lunch was " Beef Chilli/ Chapati" excellent as normally I avoid beef products unless in Europe or Africa.Kerala beef preparation is World class Non - veg cuisine and now realize the reason of Kerala state being against the beef ban in the State.
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| Internal view of C.S.I Christ Church.Notice the Stained glass and grand chandelier. |
After lunch it was a long walk from Munnar to Old Munnar and on sighting " C.S.I.Christ Church' was amazed at the topographical similarity to " Mount Carmel Church".Both the churches are built on elevated hillocks within a short distance from each other and are architectural standouts even in the 21st century with Munnar and Old Munnar having developed into highly populated bustling traffic congested tourist town's.Visited the church which is much smaller than " Mount Carmel Church" and excellently decorated for the Christmas festivities. Although a Catholic I schooled in a Protestant school " Christ Church School" in Mumbai and hence understood the difference between Protestant churches and Catholic churches.Still further in life during my travels across Europe and Ethiopia came across the " Orthodox churches" of which some celebrate Christmas and Easter on different days and months of the year following the Julian calender and not the normal Gregorian Calendar. followed by Catholic and Protestant churches across the World. Hence in Country's following Orthodox Christianity Christmas will be celebrated on Saturday 7 January 2023.Did someone say " CHRISTIANITY" is a complicated religion ?
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| C.S.I.Christ Church Christmas tree decor. |
After the visit to " C.S.I Christ Church" made my way back towards the bus stand also getting a feel of Old Munnar that resembled a congested locality of a Megapolis and not a unique hill station.Human progress has its advantages as well as disadvantages.Finally boarded a " K.S.R.T.C" bus which had a lady conductor and travelled like a local minus a knowledge of any South Indian languages except Kannada and Konkani.The once upon a time sailor makes a temporary home away from home anywhere and everywhere akin to Bear Grylls survival in the natural wild.Akin to the wild forests and desert landscapes the sea's and oceans are unforgiving for callous travellers or voyages as also is "SOLO TRAVEL".. Ahoy !. On arriving at Anachal decided to visit the doctor for my chronic allergic cough.Entered " Mothers Care" hospital , a plush medical facility in comparison to even Megapolis city's.
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| Large Vegetable market in Munnar |
The nurse filled my bio- data and later examined all.my parameters which were definitely normal otherwise I wouldn't be trekking and travelling solo at my young age.Ahoy !Later the young lady Dr Clemency questioned me and explained her my history of "CHRONIC COUGHS" due to some undetected allergy.She prescribed some antibiotics and thanking her was surprised at the bill of only Rs 320. and this was definitely not a subsidized Govt hospital
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| Old Munnar Town. Congested and heavy traffic. |
.Reaĺized the difference in charges between Rural and Metroplitan doctors although agree that cost of living differs between Metropolitan and Rural India. Has any Metropolitan Indian entrepreneur ever thought of " Rural Medical tourism" in India for Indian's ? From the hospital it was a steep uphill trek to one hill bungalow guesthouse " 3R Residency ".The bikers had shifted to some other town and only Mr Chandrakant was behind in our room.
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| Treatment for a chronic Cough allergy at " Mother Care Clinic & Lab" in Anachal .Situated just at the foot of the hill of my residence " 3 R Residency ". |
They had hard luck as due to dense fog they couldn't see Sunrise from Kolukkumalai proving the fact that nature and wildlife activities require a tremendous amount of luck.A billionaire and a common ordinary tourist are on equal level ground while sightseeing nature or wildlife as money alone is not the criteria to success for spotting wildlife or scenic wildlife landscapes. I had not seen cattle let alone a Nilgiri Tahr scouting the entire Eravikulam mountainsides with binoculars for sighting of the Nilgiri Tahr.Since Kerala is a soccer crazy State in India whoever watched the entire " Qatar 2022" World Cup from the beginning and having specialized knowledge of the sport would agree that more than skill ,luck also heavily favoured Argentina in winning the World Cup Football. After bathe and snacks took my medicine and hoped the persistent cough would reduce or totally cured.
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| The long 36 Km mountain road drive on the Munnar-Kodaikkanal road,from Munnar in Kerala to Topstation in Tamil Nadu.Topstation is situated at a altitude of 1700 meters( 5578 ft).This place falls on the border of Kerala and Tamil Nadu, and so it offers a clear view of the panoramic Western Ghats and the valley of Theni District in Tamil Nadu on a clear day. When i visited the entire mountain side was covered in dense fog .It was akin to being in the clouds.. |
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| Views from the " KSRTC " bus on the drive from Munnar to Topstation. |
Tuesday(27/12/2022)Anachal in Idukki District :- As usual was awake at 0330 hrs and busy on the Internet.Chronic Cough did not subside but neither was I feeling sick, definitely some allergy .At 0715 hrs a guest hired rickshaw gave me a lift to " Ground Level" of unique top of the hill " 3 R Residency " .After a long wait of over half an hour boarded the bus and began the now familiar 13 km route to Munnar.I could be mistaken for a N.R.I Malayalee if I could just speak a few words of Malayalam.
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| Elephant rides in this park |
On reaching " KSRTC" bus depot in Munnar alighted the bus and enquired if travel tour was conducted to Topstation.As there were no organized tour for the day akin to my hero Bear Grylls decided to make a solo effort to reach " Topstation" in the state of Tamil Nadu which is 36 Kms by road from Munnar. on the "Munnar-Kodaikanal " highway.After making bus route enquiries breakfast was at the familiar restaurant which was hosefull and had to partly stand and eat my Masala Dosa.After breakfast made the short walk back to " KSRTC" depot and at approx 0915 boarded the bus heading to Topstation.
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| Mattupetty Dam Reservoir. |
The route was akin to a tourist sightseeing tour but without a guide as I could identify the tourist locales on the route as the bus travelled slowly due to heavy traffic on the narrow mountain road.Passed alongside "Flower Point" ,"Photo Point" and "Elephant Park" where tourists can ride elephants and are shown various handling methods of elephants. Further down the mountain road passed alongside Mattupetty dam reservoir and further away "Echo Point" , the weather being excellent and cool but not cold. Finally on the last leg driving up the mountain road the weather became colder and came across cyclists riding from Kundala Dam to Munnar . Real tough road cycling as all mountain roads in Munnar are either heading upwards or downwards and never straight for very long.
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| Heavy Mountain highway Traffic jams.This was my K.S.R.T.C bus that gave me a " Birds Eye View" of the tourist spots on the highway route from Munnar to Topstation. "Necessity is the mother of Invention." |
Finally drove past Kundala Dam reservoir and which is situated about 20 km from Munnar. Kundala Dam is a picturesque tourist spot and the dam is built on River Periyar. Kundala Lake formed due to Kundala Dam offers an unforgettable experience to tourists. You can get on a pedal boat or a rowboat to explore the lake and enjoy the views and Kashmiri shikara boats are available for rent at Kundala Dam Lake.Nearing destination Topstation the weather changed abruptly into dense fog with visibility reduced to approx just 50 meters.Finally at approximately 1100 hrs reached Topstation situated at a altitude of 1700 meters(5578 ft) which was enveloped in fog.From the bus stand it was a long walk towards Topstation viewing point. Christianity and Catholicism is very dominant in Idukki District of Kerala as well as parts of Tamil Nadu and came across a shrine dedicated to St Anthony.From the shrine it was a short walk past a line of stalls selling various items to tourists.As there was dense fog and long distance visibility zero it made no sense purchasing the Rs 20 ticket to enter the viewing gallery.
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| Topstation Watch Tower for Tourists |
Anyhow out of curiosity and as a vlogger decided to see the same which was again a strenuous downhill walk through hill stairs onto the viewing gallery.On a clear day tourists can see the valley of Theni district in the state of Tamil Nadu from one side and the Western Ghats of State of Kerala on the other side but definitely not today or on most of the days when thick fog covers the mountain.Top Station got its name from the fact that it was the uppermost railway station, located in the Kundala Valley.The famous Neelakurinji flowers (Strobilanthus), which bloom once in twelve years, makes this place special among tourists.After a short time at Topstation headed back to the bus stand and got confused due to the massive tourist crowd and traffic jam.Was also sad to see the entire vicinity littered with tourist waste which gradually if left unattended will drift from the roads onto the pristine mountain slopes causing pollution and its aftereffects.
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| Shop's lining the walkway to Topstation Viewpoint. |
With great difficulty found my bus stop and to my goodluck the same bus that dropped me here picked me up again at approximately 1215 hrs from Topstation.Ticket cost was Rs 66 and the bus crowded with me lucky to get a seat.The return journey was a nightmare regarding mountain highway traffic jam and finally at 1415 hrs reached Munnar, a tour bus journey of 2 hrs to cover just 36 Kms ! On reaching Munnar first had lunch of " Fried beef/ Rice" as strangely in Munnar I had taken a liking to the Kerala culinary preparation of beef, something I never tasted before.Pork dishes was not available in any restaurant in Munnar and as far as my knowledge goes Kerala Christians do relish pork meat..Amazing India , a neutral non Indian origin foreigner would proclaim.
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| KALARI KSHETHRA venue in Chithirapuram in Munnar.If visiting Munnar don't leave without seeing either BHARAT NATYAM or KALARIPAYATTU performance at this venue.With " Qatar World Cup 2022" just having crowned Argentina World champions seems this institution is a fan of Argentina with the Argentina flag hoisted above the building. |
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| Inside the " Kalaripayattu Venue" in Chithirapuram in Munnar. |
After my late lunch enquired the bus to Chithirapuram to see the unique Kerala Martial arts sport of " KALARIPAYATTU" at " Kalari Kshethra" venue in Chithirapuram. On enquiring with a lady bus passenger was surprised to know that Chithirapuram was on the same highway route as Anachal with the ticket costing Rs 28 and the conductor helping me alight at the right stop.From the bus stand it was a downhill walk to the venue .
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| Demonstration of a sequence of the Martial art of Kalaripayattu |
Was informed that the " Kathakali Show" was from 1700-1800 hrs followed by the " Kalaripayattu" show from 1800 - 1900 hrs.Booked tickets for the Kalaripayattu show as on my previous visit to Kochi had witnessed a ," Bharat Natyam" show.Whiled away my time at " My Tea" shop sipping tea and updating my travelogue.As a writer/ observer you are never ever bored or alone in your own company.Ahoy
!Finally at 1745 hrs made my downhill walk to the stage entrance which had a housefull crowd of tourists.
Was amazed to find the Argentina flag flying over the Booking/ Reception office of Kalari Kshethra and seems this elite band of Malayalee's were also hard core Argentina Football fans.The show started a bit late and the start ceremony began with the Hindu ritual ceremony of offering homage to the deities, similar to the " Kathakali Dance" opening ceremony I had seen in Kochi.After the initial prayer offerings the actual demonstration show began and held me spellbound from the word " Start".
Watching " LIVE" and seeing Kalaripayattu in media is a World of difference .Seems late Martial arts actor Bruce Lee's " Nun Chuk" skill was a inspiration of Kalaripayattu warriors wielding sticks or flexible metallic belts.
The flame show's concerning skills of handling a flaming torch was also beyond the compass of normal human mortals.At the end of the show the audience were allowed to get themselves photographed with the Kalaripayattu artists who akin to normal sports players had their name imprinted on the back of their shirts.Kalaripayattu artist Mr Abhiram guided and posed with me for a photo-shoot.After the show made my way back to the bus stand .
Boarded the bus at 1945 hrs and it was a short 3 Kms downhill drive to Anachal which sparked brightly at night.Realized there were two churches of different Christian sects and a Mosque as well as temples on Anachal main road now decorated in Christmas Festivity decor.There is a Hindu Ayappa Temple near the end of the mountain road of Anachal and a fair was in progress.
Entered the fair which reminded me of the fairs in Mumbai, crowded .After a brief Stroll in the crowded fair made my exit and walked the trek to unforgettable " 3 R Residency " in pitch darkness hoping not to fall prey to a leopard if there was one in the vicinity.Although surrounded by dense thick jungle seems there were no predators in the vicinity of Anachal." 3 R Residency " was housefull with young guests and Manager Shaiju had to turn away a few bookings as December is peak holiday season.I was transferred to the next opposite room " N0 101" having 6 bunk beds and had new guest acquaintances, young I.T professionals from Bangalore.After a bathe relaxed on the Internet and fell asleep.
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| Demonstration of Kalaripayattu skill with fire.Leaping through the ring of fire. |
Was amazed to find the Argentina flag flying over the Booking/ Reception office of Kalari Kshethra and seems this elite band of Malayalee's were also hard core Argentina Football fans.The show started a bit late and the start ceremony began with the Hindu ritual ceremony of offering homage to the deities, similar to the " Kathakali Dance" opening ceremony I had seen in Kochi.After the initial prayer offerings the actual demonstration show began and held me spellbound from the word " Start".
Watching " LIVE" and seeing Kalaripayattu in media is a World of difference .Seems late Martial arts actor Bruce Lee's " Nun Chuk" skill was a inspiration of Kalaripayattu warriors wielding sticks or flexible metallic belts.
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| Mastery over Fire Demonstration |
The flame show's concerning skills of handling a flaming torch was also beyond the compass of normal human mortals.At the end of the show the audience were allowed to get themselves photographed with the Kalaripayattu artists who akin to normal sports players had their name imprinted on the back of their shirts.Kalaripayattu artist Mr Abhiram guided and posed with me for a photo-shoot.After the show made my way back to the bus stand .
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| One for the memory Bank of tourist photo's.After the Kalaripayattu show the audience visited the arena and were allowed to get photographed with these highly trained and disciplined martial artists. Here Kalaripayattu martial Artist Mr Abhiram guides me for this photo-shoot. |
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| Anachal Town at Night. |
Boarded the bus at 1945 hrs and it was a short 3 Kms downhill drive to Anachal which sparked brightly at night.Realized there were two churches of different Christian sects and a Mosque as well as temples on Anachal main road now decorated in Christmas Festivity decor.There is a Hindu Ayappa Temple near the end of the mountain road of Anachal and a fair was in progress.
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| AYAPPA fair in Anachal. |
Entered the fair which reminded me of the fairs in Mumbai, crowded .After a brief Stroll in the crowded fair made my exit and walked the trek to unforgettable " 3 R Residency " in pitch darkness hoping not to fall prey to a leopard if there was one in the vicinity.Although surrounded by dense thick jungle seems there were no predators in the vicinity of Anachal." 3 R Residency " was housefull with young guests and Manager Shaiju had to turn away a few bookings as December is peak holiday season.I was transferred to the next opposite room " N0 101" having 6 bunk beds and had new guest acquaintances, young I.T professionals from Bangalore.After a bathe relaxed on the Internet and fell asleep.
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| At " MUNNAR TEA MUSEUM".In the background is the conveyor machinery system demonstrating the manufacture of tea from its raw state as plucked tea leaves to the final product which is dried tea leaves of different qualities.4 kg of raw tea leaves after processing produces 1Kg of dry tea meant for consumption.Takes 26 to 19 hours for the entire process from fresh picked tea leaves to the final product of packaged tea to the common retail purchaser.This is the ratio of mass process of tea manufacturing. The waste is used for producing fertilizer. |
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| Entrance to " Kanan Devan Hills Plantations private limited company " tea museum in Munnar. Being Christmas Festive season a " Jesus Christ Crib" was displayed at the entrance. . |
Wednesday(28/12/2022)Anachal in Munnar:- Thankful on having a excellent 4 hrs sleep on waking noticed my chronic Cold/ Cough had subsided.Strangely the weather seemed warmer and my new room had a grand view of the forest below in the mountain.At 0730 hrs Manager Mr Shaiju gave me a bike lift to the town bustop and from there akin to attending a regular office job boarded the now familiar bus route to Munnar Town.Alighted at Old Munnar by mistake and breakfast was Puri/ Bhajee at " Patel vegetarian restaurant ",absolutely tasteless although the restaurant was doing good business.
I must have picked their least popular dish. Next boarded a shared autorickshaw to Munnar Town and enquired about the tea museum which was in close proximity. Visited favourite " Saravana Vegetarian restaurant " deciding to taste their paper dosa after my lousy " Puri/ Bhajee" breakfast in Old Munnar. Suddenly a man sitting with a family just ahead of my table collapsed while sitting at the restaurant table.
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| Hunting Trophy's displayed in Tea Museum. |
Presumed he had a heart attack but thankfully he recovered consciousness, and his family said he suffered from temporary suffocation. Alls well that ends well and made my way out of the restaurant. Boarded a autorickshaw and on a fare or Rs 50 headed to " Munnar Tea Museum",India's first tea museum..On arriving at the museum was not surprised to see the entire parking lot filled with cars as it was peak tourist season.The museum is owned and managed by " Kanan Devan Hills Plantations Private Limited " and entrance fee was Rs 125.
Excellent World class museum having separate sections in different rooms each explaining a different topic .
Most importantly is the history of Munnar and its development as a tea production centre showcasing the history of tea cultivation in Munnar since 1876 when tea was first planted in this tea plantation district. On display are several rare artefacts and curios as well as evocative photographs from an era long forgotten and of which few are aware.Munnar was one of the first places in India to have a railway line in the country but ironically, the hill station and Idukki the district to which it belongs do not have rail connection even today.In 1908 a light railway starting from the Munnar station was started having two stations en route, at Mattupetty and Palaar, before ending the journey at Top Station.
From Top Station, where the mono rail ended , tea was carried on ropeway to Kottagudi, which was also called the Bottom Station. From Bottom Station it was transported to the lower country and then to Tuticorin for export by sea . The containers used for packing were ‘Imperial Chests’ imported from the UK.The Kundala Valley Railway, set up by the Kannan Devan Company for the transportation of tea was the basic railway system which was devastated in a deluge in 1924 and never rebuilt. A granite sundial made in 1913 by the Art Industrial School at Nazareth in Tamil Nadu greets visitors at the entrance to the museum and was exact at showing the time i entered which was a few minutes past 10 A.M. The memorabilia preserved inside include an iron-age burial urn from the 2nd century BC that was exhumed in the 1970s.Also on display was the original tea roller of 1905, the rotor vane (the old-time CTC type tea processing machine), the Pelton wheel used in the power generation plant that existed in the 1920’s and a rail engine wheel of the Kundaly Valley Light Railway that transported men and material between Munnar and Top Station during the early part of the 20th century until it was destroyed by heavy flooding.One room had hunting trophy's displayed against the wall along with a history of Munnar.Another room had all the antique equipment used in logistics and running of the tea company.Tourists are also shown the method of manufacturing tea in the museum factory.On the first floor of the factory was a small hall where a museum guide akin to a nutritional doctor was lecturing on methods of having good health and the importance of tea drinking as a "Health drink".A excellent and brilliant tea salesman.
Seems this museum besides educating the layman on the tea Industry in Munnar was also a excellent advertisement for drinking tea and purchasing tea products.After the factory hall visit tourists are next led to the sales department where various tea and spices are for sale.Various types of ready to drink tea was also on sale and tasted " White tea" being totally illiterate as a ' Teataster" although a heavy tea drinker.Finally after completing my educational visit to the tea museum next visited the prototype tea garden situated opposite the museum building that was landscaped for tourists with a beautiful suspension bridge.
Finally boarded a autorickshaw to Munnar and lunch was " Roast Beef curry" at Al Hilal restaurant surprised at my own normal non-vegetarian culinary habits.Fish in Munnar is of inferior quality as it is a hill station and not a coastal locale and hence the fish I consume at home in Mumbai is fresh and high quality but the beef culinary of Munnar was definitely something different. After lunch did some shopping of Munnar Halwa, chocolates and banana chips.The bus journey back home away from home to Anachal was on a housefull bus and after sometime managed to get a seat.The end of my sightseeing of Munnar having travelled hundreds of kilometers to different villages during my road trips. Walking 200 meters daily up and down from " 3 R Residency " to Anachal bus stop itself was akin to trekking a hill at my young age .Something different and "3 R Residency" will be a unforgettable stay in my memory bank having lost count of hotel's,resort's,guesthouses,hostel's and ship's cabin's i have called as home away from home during my sea employment and now travel's across India and the Globe. A charming life or lifestyle ? Ahoy!
Later in the evening spotted a foreigner in my previous room and on striking a conversation was surprised that 40 years young Spanish citizen Mr Carlos.Blasco.Bujan had ridden his cycle all the way from Germany to Europe and was on the road for 7 months.Later in the night got a lift to Anachal Town centre and dinner was " Beef Fry/ Aapam ".On my walk back for the trek to " 3 R Residency " dropped into " Mother care" hospital/ dispensary and thanked the nurse and Dr Clemency for their effective treatment.On arrival at " 3 R Residency " settled my accommodation bill with Manager Mr Shaiju .Iype as also amazed that guests were overcrowding the guesthouse.
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| Office equipment of a now bygone era on display at tea museum. |
Most importantly is the history of Munnar and its development as a tea production centre showcasing the history of tea cultivation in Munnar since 1876 when tea was first planted in this tea plantation district. On display are several rare artefacts and curios as well as evocative photographs from an era long forgotten and of which few are aware.Munnar was one of the first places in India to have a railway line in the country but ironically, the hill station and Idukki the district to which it belongs do not have rail connection even today.In 1908 a light railway starting from the Munnar station was started having two stations en route, at Mattupetty and Palaar, before ending the journey at Top Station.
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| Original Tea Roller at Museum(1905) |
From Top Station, where the mono rail ended , tea was carried on ropeway to Kottagudi, which was also called the Bottom Station. From Bottom Station it was transported to the lower country and then to Tuticorin for export by sea . The containers used for packing were ‘Imperial Chests’ imported from the UK.The Kundala Valley Railway, set up by the Kannan Devan Company for the transportation of tea was the basic railway system which was devastated in a deluge in 1924 and never rebuilt. A granite sundial made in 1913 by the Art Industrial School at Nazareth in Tamil Nadu greets visitors at the entrance to the museum and was exact at showing the time i entered which was a few minutes past 10 A.M. The memorabilia preserved inside include an iron-age burial urn from the 2nd century BC that was exhumed in the 1970s.Also on display was the original tea roller of 1905, the rotor vane (the old-time CTC type tea processing machine), the Pelton wheel used in the power generation plant that existed in the 1920’s and a rail engine wheel of the Kundaly Valley Light Railway that transported men and material between Munnar and Top Station during the early part of the 20th century until it was destroyed by heavy flooding.One room had hunting trophy's displayed against the wall along with a history of Munnar.Another room had all the antique equipment used in logistics and running of the tea company.Tourists are also shown the method of manufacturing tea in the museum factory.On the first floor of the factory was a small hall where a museum guide akin to a nutritional doctor was lecturing on methods of having good health and the importance of tea drinking as a "Health drink".A excellent and brilliant tea salesman.
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| Lecture on health and importance of tea at tea museum akin to a nutritionist.. |
Seems this museum besides educating the layman on the tea Industry in Munnar was also a excellent advertisement for drinking tea and purchasing tea products.After the factory hall visit tourists are next led to the sales department where various tea and spices are for sale.Various types of ready to drink tea was also on sale and tasted " White tea" being totally illiterate as a ' Teataster" although a heavy tea drinker.Finally after completing my educational visit to the tea museum next visited the prototype tea garden situated opposite the museum building that was landscaped for tourists with a beautiful suspension bridge.
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| Thanks to manager Mr Shaiju .Iype that I got local logistics of travel on KSRTC buses in Munnar. |
Finally boarded a autorickshaw to Munnar and lunch was " Roast Beef curry" at Al Hilal restaurant surprised at my own normal non-vegetarian culinary habits.Fish in Munnar is of inferior quality as it is a hill station and not a coastal locale and hence the fish I consume at home in Mumbai is fresh and high quality but the beef culinary of Munnar was definitely something different. After lunch did some shopping of Munnar Halwa, chocolates and banana chips.The bus journey back home away from home to Anachal was on a housefull bus and after sometime managed to get a seat.The end of my sightseeing of Munnar having travelled hundreds of kilometers to different villages during my road trips. Walking 200 meters daily up and down from " 3 R Residency " to Anachal bus stop itself was akin to trekking a hill at my young age .Something different and "3 R Residency" will be a unforgettable stay in my memory bank having lost count of hotel's,resort's,guesthouses,hostel's and ship's cabin's i have called as home away from home during my sea employment and now travel's across India and the Globe. A charming life or lifestyle ? Ahoy!
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| With Mr Carlos.Blassco.Bujan of Spain who has cycled from Germany to India. Travelling the World on a cycle. |
Later in the evening spotted a foreigner in my previous room and on striking a conversation was surprised that 40 years young Spanish citizen Mr Carlos.Blasco.Bujan had ridden his cycle all the way from Germany to Europe and was on the road for 7 months.Later in the night got a lift to Anachal Town centre and dinner was " Beef Fry/ Aapam ".On my walk back for the trek to " 3 R Residency " dropped into " Mother care" hospital/ dispensary and thanked the nurse and Dr Clemency for their effective treatment.On arrival at " 3 R Residency " settled my accommodation bill with Manager Mr Shaiju .Iype as also amazed that guests were overcrowding the guesthouse.
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| " Anachal( Munnar) to Kochi" on common " K.S.R.T.C" bus.Start of the 2 days Non-stop travel by bus and train to Mumbai. |
Thursday(29/12/2022) Departure Anachal in munnar and train to Mumbai : - Woke up at 0400 hrs and after a bathe and normal routines bid adieu to " 3 R Residency " .Manager Mr Shaiju .Iype gave me a lift from guesthouse trek point to the bus stand in Anachal Town.At 0520 hrs boarded the KSRTC bus to Kochi, the bus fare being Rs 130 and further downhill after a long halt at Adimali Town finally departed at 0600 hrs.At 0715 hrs reached Kothamangalam bus stand.
At 0930 hrs thanks to the conductor's instructions alighted the KSRTC bus at Vytilla Hub bus terminus in Kochi and boarded the local bus to Ernakulam ( South).Vyttila Mobility Hub is an integrated transit terminal in the city of Kochi and is designed as a converging point of various forms of public transportation, such as local and long-distance buses, metro rail and inland water transport. It is planned over an area of 37 acres (150,000 m2) in Vyttila, making it one of the largest bus terminals in India.On the way passed alongside Fatima Matha Church in Kadavanthra in Kochi city. This is the first church in India dedicated to our " Lady of Fatima ". The Curch was consecrated in 1951.After a short distance alighted the bus at Ernakulam( South) and had breakfast of " Aapam/ Kadla " at hilariously named " Appu aur Pappu" restaurant
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| 23 years old " Youtuber" Mr Mahroof.K.V a " Argentina Fan"as was a majority of Keralites. A " Celebrity Youtuber" with a " Fan Following " of 7 lakhs only. Travel Educates. |
At 0930 hrs thanks to the conductor's instructions alighted the KSRTC bus at Vytilla Hub bus terminus in Kochi and boarded the local bus to Ernakulam ( South).Vyttila Mobility Hub is an integrated transit terminal in the city of Kochi and is designed as a converging point of various forms of public transportation, such as local and long-distance buses, metro rail and inland water transport. It is planned over an area of 37 acres (150,000 m2) in Vyttila, making it one of the largest bus terminals in India.On the way passed alongside Fatima Matha Church in Kadavanthra in Kochi city. This is the first church in India dedicated to our " Lady of Fatima ". The Curch was consecrated in 1951.After a short distance alighted the bus at Ernakulam( South) and had breakfast of " Aapam/ Kadla " at hilariously named " Appu aur Pappu" restaurant
.After breakfast it was a long walk towards Ernakulam junction station where after decades I crossed the railway tracks to reach the station.
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As I had ample time at my disposal just strolled in the vicinity that advertised rooms on hire for tourists.Decided to have a early lunch at " Cafe Kissa" which was " Bangda curry/ Puttu" .Fish preparation at my home in Mumbai was lengths ahead in taste and quality.Two young men were sitting next to me and one of them wearing a " Messi T- shirt" made a short video of me eating the dish
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Looks can be deceptive and I was amazed when 23 year's old Mr Mahroof.K.V told me that he earned a income as a " Youtuber" producing web series , vlogs and short films having a subscription list of 7 lakh viewers on three different channels." Travel educates and never judge a book or a Vlogger by the cover." Was finally at " Ernakulam Junction( South)" terminus and after inquiry made myself comfortable on a chair on platform- N0 1 awaiting the arrival of " 16346/ Nethravathi Express".It was hot weather in Kochi unbelievable that just a few hours ago it was a pleasant cool morning on departure from Anachal in Munnar. Boarded the train at 1345 hrs and as usual the same commotion and crowd typical of " Second Class sleeper" travel.A group of young I.T professionals were on their way to celebrating New Year in Goa and during conversation was surprised that during a September visit to Eravikulam National Park the Nilgiri Tahr's were roaming like domestic goats in the park vicinity and on the paved main tourist pathway..He showed me photo's and i stared in disbelief as just on Monday during my visit to Eravikulam seemed the Nilgiri Tahr was extinct in this park.
Upto Kannur Station the S6 compartment seemed like a general compartment, crowded with unreserved travellers.Two unreserved passenger's ,employees of a Marathi film shooting unit in Munnar were on their way back to Mumbai and hence overheard some filmi topics.Anyhow did manage my 3hrs sleep.Early morning on Friday our train reached Madgao at approx 0500 hrs and after that station seems " S 6 Coach" was suddenly upgraded to a First class compartment, the coach almost empty off unreserved as also a few reserved passengers. For New Year-2023 celebrations Goa seemed to be the place people were heading to from all directions of India. Occupied the entire window seat facing our main compartment passage aisle and had a excellent view of the Sahyadri mountains from a sleeping position multitasking on my smartphone. The entire Friday morning journey was comfortable although the train seemed behind schedule by at least one and a half hour.Finally like a laggard racehorse covering lengths towards the finish line the train recovered lost time and we reached Panvel Station on schedule time.Was happily hoping to reach L.T.T station at 1645 hrs when to my utter disbelief the train suddenly came to a grinding halt after passing Diva train station.Seems the overhead electric cable of the train had short-circuited which meant a delay of hours let alone minutes.A few passengers alighted the stationery train walking the approximately 1 Km distance to Diva train station and i followed in their footsteps as did almost all the passengers of "16346 Nethravathi Express".Had last walked along a railway trek in 2017 during a group trek to Dudhsagar waterfalls in Goa and now this was the second time and that too unwittingly and unwillingly.
I had thought my horse had won but it broke down before the finish post. Ahoy !It was not easy dragging a trolley-bag along with a shoulder bag along a path of gravel.Finally at 1706 huffed and puffed my way into Diva train station,akin to a tourist as this was the first time i was boarding a train from this station in suburban Mumbai.Purchased a ticket to Dadar Station costing Rs 15 and was only hoping age had not diminished my skills of youth which included travelling in the most crowded trains in Bombay of the 1970's/1980's. A slow train finally arrived and realized that my skills had not diminished as i squeezed my way along with baggage into the "Luggage Compartment".It was a final slow train journey to Dadar station and from there a shared taxi drive to Century bazaar as taxi's were in demand .My final leg of the Munnar to Mumbai journey was on foot from Century Bazaar to Vaibhav Apartments on Old Prabhadevi road, end of a over 36 hours journey by rail and road.I was unwittingly due to circumstances and situations competing against myself and busy breaking my own solo travel records.
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| After the " First leg" of travel by bus from Anachal( Munnar) to Kochi its the " Second Leg" of the journey from Ernakulam Junction station to LTT Station in Mumbai. Definition of " NOMADIC TRAVEL" with a set travel destination plan. |
As I had ample time at my disposal just strolled in the vicinity that advertised rooms on hire for tourists.Decided to have a early lunch at " Cafe Kissa" which was " Bangda curry/ Puttu" .Fish preparation at my home in Mumbai was lengths ahead in taste and quality.Two young men were sitting next to me and one of them wearing a " Messi T- shirt" made a short video of me eating the dish
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| The Art of feeling like residing in a hotel on a common "Second Class Sleeper" compartment ! Post "Madgao(Margao) in Goa the entire compartment was almost empty resembling a "First Class Compartment" as most passengers had alighted the train for celebrating "New Year 2023" in Goa.One of my best "Second Class Sleeper" train journey with a view of the Sahyadri mountains as the train moved to Mumbai.Little did i realize that later this same train would have a breakdown and i would have to haul my luggage alongside the railtrack and walk over 1 Km to reach "Diva Station" in distant suburban Mumbai and board a normal crowded local train to Dadar Station . |
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| Breakdown of 16346/Nethravathi Express about 1 Km from Diva station forced most passengers to alight the train and walk alongside the rail tracks to "Diva Station". Here is my arrival with trolley bag at Diva Station after a torturous 1 Km walk with luggage. |
Looks can be deceptive and I was amazed when 23 year's old Mr Mahroof.K.V told me that he earned a income as a " Youtuber" producing web series , vlogs and short films having a subscription list of 7 lakh viewers on three different channels." Travel educates and never judge a book or a Vlogger by the cover." Was finally at " Ernakulam Junction( South)" terminus and after inquiry made myself comfortable on a chair on platform- N0 1 awaiting the arrival of " 16346/ Nethravathi Express".It was hot weather in Kochi unbelievable that just a few hours ago it was a pleasant cool morning on departure from Anachal in Munnar. Boarded the train at 1345 hrs and as usual the same commotion and crowd typical of " Second Class sleeper" travel.A group of young I.T professionals were on their way to celebrating New Year in Goa and during conversation was surprised that during a September visit to Eravikulam National Park the Nilgiri Tahr's were roaming like domestic goats in the park vicinity and on the paved main tourist pathway..He showed me photo's and i stared in disbelief as just on Monday during my visit to Eravikulam seemed the Nilgiri Tahr was extinct in this park.
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| A unforgettable " Ernakulam Junction to LTT Terminus" train ride. Here I am at Diva Station to board the local central train to Dadar due to a breakdown of the 16346/ Nethravathi Express. " TRAVEL IS NOT ABOUT REACHING YOUR DESTINATION BUT ALSO ABOUT THE JOURNEY TO REACH YOUR DESTINATION ". |
Upto Kannur Station the S6 compartment seemed like a general compartment, crowded with unreserved travellers.Two unreserved passenger's ,employees of a Marathi film shooting unit in Munnar were on their way back to Mumbai and hence overheard some filmi topics.Anyhow did manage my 3hrs sleep.Early morning on Friday our train reached Madgao at approx 0500 hrs and after that station seems " S 6 Coach" was suddenly upgraded to a First class compartment, the coach almost empty off unreserved as also a few reserved passengers. For New Year-2023 celebrations Goa seemed to be the place people were heading to from all directions of India. Occupied the entire window seat facing our main compartment passage aisle and had a excellent view of the Sahyadri mountains from a sleeping position multitasking on my smartphone. The entire Friday morning journey was comfortable although the train seemed behind schedule by at least one and a half hour.Finally like a laggard racehorse covering lengths towards the finish line the train recovered lost time and we reached Panvel Station on schedule time.Was happily hoping to reach L.T.T station at 1645 hrs when to my utter disbelief the train suddenly came to a grinding halt after passing Diva train station.Seems the overhead electric cable of the train had short-circuited which meant a delay of hours let alone minutes.A few passengers alighted the stationery train walking the approximately 1 Km distance to Diva train station and i followed in their footsteps as did almost all the passengers of "16346 Nethravathi Express".Had last walked along a railway trek in 2017 during a group trek to Dudhsagar waterfalls in Goa and now this was the second time and that too unwittingly and unwillingly.
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| At "Diva Station" waiting to board the local train to Dadar. |
I had thought my horse had won but it broke down before the finish post. Ahoy !It was not easy dragging a trolley-bag along with a shoulder bag along a path of gravel.Finally at 1706 huffed and puffed my way into Diva train station,akin to a tourist as this was the first time i was boarding a train from this station in suburban Mumbai.Purchased a ticket to Dadar Station costing Rs 15 and was only hoping age had not diminished my skills of youth which included travelling in the most crowded trains in Bombay of the 1970's/1980's. A slow train finally arrived and realized that my skills had not diminished as i squeezed my way along with baggage into the "Luggage Compartment".It was a final slow train journey to Dadar station and from there a shared taxi drive to Century bazaar as taxi's were in demand .My final leg of the Munnar to Mumbai journey was on foot from Century Bazaar to Vaibhav Apartments on Old Prabhadevi road, end of a over 36 hours journey by rail and road.I was unwittingly due to circumstances and situations competing against myself and busy breaking my own solo travel records.
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P.S :- A Big thanks to the locals of the State of Kerala for the right location guidance provided during my "SOLO TRAVEL" across Munar and Idukki District of Kerala.My advice for first time tourists is if travelling for sightseeing Munnar then please travel in a group or along with your own private transport.
